Can two quaker parrots live in the same cage?

Category: Quaker Parrot Cages

I have two baby quakers from different cluthes. One is a blue and one is a green. I wanted to know if they could live together or should I buy two cages? I just want them as pets and I got them from the same person they are 2wks difference in their ages but both still being handfeed by me. Thanks
So to keep them as pets and to love me it would be best to keep them apart? I have one huge cage with a play top. But I can buy another cage for them. I thought they would like having a birdie friend to play with but I want them to love me also. They get along fine now they sleep together. They are 2wks old and almost 4wks old well from the hatch date.

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9 Responses to “Can two quaker parrots live in the same cage?”

  1. Mackerel & Cheeseā„¢

    Hand fed and WEANED and SOCIALIZED young birds make better pets than parent-raised birds. Being “the boss” means you set boundaries early when you get the bird. If you don’t want it on your shoulder, don’t let it get on your shoulder. If you don’t want it on the furniture, you get it a perch that’s not on the furniture. If you don’t want it flying all over the place, clip its wings (this also helps with getting it used to you early on).
    It’s like any other pet — you HAVE to be a responsible pet owner.

  2. Chiappone

    You have to set limitations with the bird, like any other animal. Quakers are smart little parrots and if they think they can get away with something, they will try. If you don’t want it on something, do not allow it there, etc. Hand fed babies are generally tamer and have more socialization than parent fed babies and therefore are used to people, making them better for “pet” birds that you want to interact with. Hand fed Quakers can be great little parrots, that are great fun to have if you can not let the bird walk all over you.

  3. ??Hersheykiss??


  4. illiam A

    yes of course. if the cage is big enough. they are naturally social creatures.
    have fun with them!

  5. whiteparrot

    As long as they get along there is no reason not to house them together. They may bond to each other, however, and not be as open to you. Also, if they are male and female, they may choose to mate after they reach maturity. I’ve had that happen.

  6. Mmm P

    Yes but first you have to tame them.

    *First I’ll just say that I’m by no means an “expert,” and this is mostly based on my own experienced in RE-taming my quaker after I had some major jealousy problems with her. Before the problems, she’d been a sweet, handfed/handraised baby, so I’m not sure if the same procedure would work with taming your quaker.

    With time and patience I think it’s possible to tame/re-tame a quaker. Getting his wings clipped is definitely the place to start. Once you start working with him, remember to *always* be gentle, use slow movements around him. After getting the wings clipped, get him out of the cage and work with him away from the cage (you might have to use a towel to get him out of or away from the cage). Cage aggression is common with quakers, and it will be much easier for you in to work “neutral territory.” It will be better if you take him to another room, away from his cage to a room he’s never been in before.

    Once in neutral territory, observe him, see what he does. Perhaps you have him on a table in front of you–you might put some toys on the table. Does he explore? Does he come over to you and want to interact? Does he try to bite or attack you? Is he afraid of you? If the reaction is neutral or good, try interacting with him. If you move slowly, he may let you touch him. If he seems scared, stay still, talk to him softly and calmly. At first, you might want to spend some one-on-one “play” time with him. If he acts really aggressive, you could go ahead and start “training.”

    Each training session should be short (like 5 min), and you might want to work with him once or twice a day.

    Don’t be too rigorous with the training–just intersperse the following steps with a daily, routine (the same time each day is best) “playtime”.

    The first thing to train is “step-up”.

    Here are your goals and procedures for the training. How far you get in each short session will depend on how your bird is acting.

    If he’s biting or trying to bit a lot, you might want to start with hand-held perches (anything about the right size with a surface he can grip will work) instead of your fingers. It’s probably easiest to start with him standing on some kind of perch (so he can’t back away). Bring the hand-held perch (or your finger if you want to) up from below and gently but firmly press it against his lower belly or where his legs join his body–at the same time saying “step-up” (or phrase of your choice)–until he steps onto the perch. Once he does this, lots of praise, and maybe even a small treat (one he can finish quickly). Then have him step onto another perch, held with your other hand, with the same process. Having him do a series of step ups from one hand-held perch to the other is called laddering.

    Once he’s doing that pretty well with the perches, and doesn’t seem to be trying to bite, you can start off laddering with the two perches, and then smoothly put down one of the perches and replace it with your finger–doing a few more step ups between your finger and the remaining perch in your other hand. If you do this relatively fast, he shouldn’t have a chance to bite. Always praise after he does well. Then transfer to laddering just between your two hands (or fingers). If he starts biting, you can always back up a little and go back to the hand-held perches. If he doesn’t show any signs of biting, slow down on the laddering until he’s just sitting on your finger.

    This process should get him used to perching on your finger and not biting. If during these sessions with him in a neutral area, you’ve also been just plain spending time with him–talking to him, watching him, playing with him–he’s probably a lot more used to being around you. He may even automatically be starting to let you touch and pet him. As always, just be patient, and move slowly around him, especially when you’re working up to petting him. In time, Grady may begin to like being touched and cuddled, and seek it himself. Quakers have such potential for being wonderfully interactive pets–so much more than just a bird to be listened to and watched though cage bars.

  7. mylilsims

    I would get them into separate cages And take them out by themselves each day to work with them

    Is the youngest totally weaned?
    Have you put them on a healthy varied diet?
    Abundance weaned?
    I would do a bit of Quaker reading some great sites include Quakerville


    there are some great Quaker message boards also

    good luck

  8. Owlwoman

    You got some good answers.

    Do supervise them the first day or two to see if they like each other.
    And continue to handle them often to keep them tame.

  9. jen's3littlebirds

    Awww aren’t baby quakers so cute when you handfeed? They are adorable!! They may be okay in the same cage, since they are babies and will grow together and bond with each other. Just keep an eye out as they reach sexual maturity (in quakers 12 to 18 months). If they are of the same sex than you may start having some troubles, you just never know with birds how they are going to react to something. Sexual maturity in birds sometimes causes birds to become hormonal and act strange. If you handle them both everyday they will bond together but still form a strong bond with you. I have never had a problem with birds sharing a cage and then not bonding with me. The only ones I can’t touch are my breeding pairs and that is just because they have never been handled. Play with them and spend time interacting with them and they will love you very much. Quakers have a strong desire to be a part of a family. They are awesome, spunky little birds with wonderful personality’s. Congrat’s on your new babies!

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